Process of manufacturing semistiff collars



Patented Nov. 4, 1941 Dorman McBurney, Newburgh, N. Y., assignor to E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Company, Wilmington, Del., a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Application April 6,1939, Serial No. 266,422

4 Claims.

This invention relates to wearing apparel of the type to be laundered, and more particularly to the stiffened portions of launderable wearing apparel,

such as shirts, collars, cufis, plaits and the like.

Many efforts have been made to provide improved wearing apparel of the above mentioned types in order to impart a semi-stiff condition and improved appearance to articles and .prevent them from wilting or becoming wrinkled,

especially in warm weather, and so they will not be sensitive to water spots.

It has been found, however, that many such articles, while possessing the desired properties mentioned above, have a moire appearance, and are therefore objectionable, particularly where made of plain white material, and to a lesser degree where made of solid colors, or of figured or multi-colored goods.

I have discovered that this moir appearance can be overcome by using fabric plies arranged in certain ways and having certain relationships between the actual thread count in the various plies.

By the term "multi-ply fabrics, as used herein, is meant laminated fabric constructions comprising two or more plies of fabric.

By the term moire, as used herein, is meant a wavy or watered pattern that is visible on the exposed outer surface of the multi-ply fabric,

By the term cross-wise relation, as used herein, is meant a laminated arrangement of the plies in which, where there are three or more plies, the length of the exposed (when worn) outer ply is cut in the direction of the warp threads, and the length of the adjacent intermediate ply is cut in. the direction of the filler threads, or the length of the exposed outer ply is cut in the direction of the filler threads, and the length of the adjacent intermediate ply is cut in the direction of the warp threads; and where there are only two plies, one ply is cut in the direction of the warp threads and the other ply is cut in the direction of the filler threads.

By the term ratioj as used herein, is meant the quotient obtained by dividing the number of substantially parallel threads per inch in any ply, in either the warp or filler direction, by the number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the adjacent superposed ply.

It is therefore an object of this invention to provide a process of making improved articles of launderable wearing apparel, and more particularly with respect to inaking the stiffened portions of such apparel.

It is another object of this invention to provide a process of making semi-stiff shirts, collars, cuffs, plaits and the like which are free of. any moir pattern.

It is a further object of this invention to provide a process of making such articles of wearing apparel in which the stifiened portions are multiply fabrics arranged in cross-wise relation.

It is also an object of this invention to provide the improved articles of wearing apparel referred to above which are free of moire.

With the above and other objects in view, which will be apparent as the description proceeds, the invention is set forth in the following specification by way of illustration, but not as a limitation thereof.

Shirts, collars, cuifs, plaits and the like falling within the scope of the invention may be made in'various ways without departing from the scope of the invention, since the latter is not dependent upon any particular method of securing the bonding of the various plies, or on the process of making the 'multi-ply fabrics, except insofar as this involves the materials out of which the plies are made and their arrangement in the finished article, although it will be understood that the invention is limited to the so-called chemical collars in which the piles are united either by the use of a thermoplastic adhesive, or

by an adhesive which may be activated with the aid of a solvent, and then subjected to pressure.

The primary feature of this invention comprises the discovery that, in articles of the type referred to above, in which all of the threads in each direction are arranged in substantially parallel cross-wise relation, the moire will be eliminated if:

(1) All ratios of superposed substantially parallel threads fall within any one or more of the ranges given in Table'III, or

(2) The ratios of one set of superposed substantially parallel threads fall within any one or more of the'ranges given in Table III and the the above ratios are observed, any suitable adhesive materials or fabrics, and any suitable method of making the multi-ply fabric, may be used.-

Examples of suitable methods and adhesive coatings are disclosed and claimed in McBurney and Nollau co-pending applications Serial No. 5,078, filed February 5, 1935, now Patent No. 2,201,908, Serial No. 146,960, filed June 7, 1937,

.and Patent 2,083,199. a

-In these disclosures there is set forth a method of making semi-stiff shirts, collars, cuffs, plaits and the like in which the material to be used as I an inter-lining is coated on one or both sides, or impregnated with a thermoplasticcement, such as one comprising polymeric methyl methacrylate. The adhesive coating is then dried, as by passing the coated material through a heated chamber to expel the volatile solvents which are actually present in the thermoplastic adhesive coating. By..means of a suitable (11501 other means, the coated interliner and the outer plies,

that the invention comprises arranging the adjacent plies in crosswise relation, although the preferred embodiment comprises cutting the length of the interliner ply in the direction of Frequency of moirpatterns in collars Broadcloth n In (crosswise) Ratios (imed on actual thread count) Theo- Theo- R lt 1 Ac l r Actual Broadcloth Broadcloth Interliner Interiiner H s g gh thread ga e; m thread warp, interfiller, inter- .fliier, broadwarp. broad- I count count c unt liner tiller liner warp cloth warp cloth flller W I F W F W F W F 4. 20-37%" 116 X 60 120 X 60 6. -46 40 X 33 42 X 37 120 37=3. 24 SO/42:1. 43 37/120==. 31 42/60= 70 No moiro 4. -37%" 116 X 60 119 X 61 6. -44 48 X 48 NIX 46 119/46=2. 59 61/50=1. 22 4fi/119=. 39 50/61= 82 S1. moire 4. 20-37%" 116 X 118 X 62 5. 85-43" 56 X 52 62X 51 118/51=2. 31 62/62=1. 51/118= 43 62/62=1. 00 Moire 4. 20-37%" 116 x 60 119 X 61 4. 75-39" 68 X 72 68 X 68 119/68=1. 75 61/68= 9O 68/l19=. 57 68/61=1. 11 S1. moire 4. 20-37%" 116'X 60 119 X 60 3. 85-44" 80 X 80 '81 X 75 119/75=1. 59 60/R1= 74 75/119 63 81/60=1. 35 No moire 4. 20-37%" 116 X 60 119 X 61 4. 75-39" 88 X 80 86 X 87 119/87=1. 37 61/86== 71 87/119=. 73 86/61=1. 41 NO moire 4. 20-37%" 116 X 60 121 X 61 7. 00-40" 96 X 100 94 X 101 121/101==l. 20 61/94= 101/121=. 83 94/61=1. 54 N0 moire. 4.10-37" 123 X 68 128 X 69 6. 15-46%" 40 X 38 43 X 36 128/36=3. 555 69,'43=1. 60 36/l28=. 28 43/69= 62 N0 moire. 4. 10-37" 128 X 68 132 69 6. 40-44" 48 X 48 52 X 47 132/47=2. 81 69/52= 1. 33 47/132=, 36 52/69= 75 N0 molre. 4. 10-37" 128 X 68 135 X 5. 85-43" 56 X 52 62 X 52 135/52=2. 60 70/62=1. 13 52/135=. 385 62/70= 885 Mo1re. 4. 10-37" 128 X 68 130 X 71 4. -39" 68 X 72 69 X 69 130/60=1. B8 71/69=1.-03 69/130=. 53 69/71= 97 S1. moire. 4.10-37" 128 X 68 127 X 70 3. 85-44" X 80 81 X 75 127/75=1. 69 70/81= 86 75/127=. 59 81/70 =1. 16 S1. moire. '4. 10 -37" 128 X 68 129 X 70 4. 75-39" 88 X 80 86 X 83 129/83=1. 55 70/S6= 81 83/129=. 64 86/70=1; 23 No metre. 4. 10-37" 128 X 68 133 X 69 7. 00-40" 06 X 100 99 X 97 133/97=1. 37 69l99= 70 97/133=. 73 99/69=1. 43 No moire. F v 4. 00-37" 136 X 60 137 X 64 6. 15-46%" 46 X 38 42 X 37 137/37=3. 70 64/42=1. 52 37/137=. 27 42l64= 66 N0 moire. 4. 00-37" 136 X 60 136 X 63 6. 40-44" 43 X 48 50 X 47 136/47=2. 89 63/50=1. 26 47/136=. 345 50/63= 79 Very Slight. 4. 00-37" 136 X 60 138 X 64 5. -43" 56 X 52 62 X 52 138/52=2. 65 64/62=1. 03 52/138==. 38 62/64= 97 Metre. 4- 00-37" 136 X 60 138 X 65 4. 75-39" 68 X 72 67 X 69 138/69=2.,0O 65/67= 97 69/138=. 50 37/65=1. 03 Moire. 4- 00-37" 136 X 60 134 X 65 3. 85-44" X 80 78 X 76 134/76=1. 76 65/78= 83 76/134=. 57 78/65=1 20 Very Slight.- 4. 00-37" 136 X 60 141 X 63 4. 75- 39" 88 X 80 39 X 84 141/84=1. 68 63/89= 71 84/141 595 89/63'=1. 41 N0 moire. 4. 00-37" 136 X 60 142 X 64 7. 00-40" 96 X 100 X 94 142/94=1. 51 64/95== 67 94/142= 66 95/64=1. 48 N0 moire.

t: or 5 ZttfttiFJSS-SZSES.StilitfitiJifi tteiftfi i or m. e co ar 1s 28233123 i ig p la g on e shaped ply.of outer tion oi the warp of the fabric, and, in both the fabric on top of another shapedply of outer fabgeneric form and the P f rr f rm. assembling ric, laying the shaped coated interliner ply on 1111658 Pl including the P op coated 01 n top of t outer plies and stitching t th 10 pregnatedinterliner, in any suitable manner, proseparate plies on three sides. The side which is Vided y that h filler threads i One Ply are later to be attached t t neckband is t arranged parallel to the warp threads in the stitched at this stage. The collar is turned adjacent ply, and the ratio of the superposed inside out so t the mt m will be between parallel threads of the fabrics used falls within the two outer plies. A row of ornamental stitch- -15 the ranges Set belowis mastitis; aria asthma;

e ar or ca go si o s i s hfg of the thre: shaped p11e ,fi theoretical thread count of 40 x 38 (although its now a to be f d by means of heat and e actual thread count after coating was 42 x 37), v sure In the fusing operation, a smooth, t 20 which is used in conjunction with 4.00 --37" outg i i sg was: as; i 'iltltgttfiiitii 22:22: ouerpyo emu -py arcsuppo ona resflienthushmm The collar top isnow ready to count after forming the multi-ply fabric was a zg to 2; g g by 3 thehun- @111 be obvious the actual thread count s ed edge of e ee p es, w c ave een g5 fused together, t g g gg-g the neck; lititirt ttttll fifit t tti 335:3 2335;"; g gai gg 3 g g i g igg g of the interliner ply or the outer ply after it is collar after turning inside out he coated- Consequently, the actual thread count tached tOfthe neckhand plies hefore'fus-ing The 30 as given in the specification and claims refers cape portion of, the collar s folded back over to the actual thread count of the uncoated outer the neckhand to form the completed Conan ply and the actual thread count of the coated t In afiiother method of malzieng artflcles of this gg fgg g gf g l g i fg l iig szz a:

ype t e same-sequence o s ps is ollowed ex? cept that the adhesive material with which the 35 fi gg' gg i fi g f i i g 553 g g g izl interliner is coated need not be a thermoplastic containing 5 n e figg gk egg g g 3 33 2333 ggfi As examples of the effect of various combinaples of materials that may he used in mam tions ofbroadcloth and interliner arranged as nerare vinyl resins, such as copolymers of vinyl 4-0 t :2 3ggif fi ggg g flgig gx fi mgg chlonde and vinyl acetate or mixtures of such is as indicated. in the column headed Result,. polymers a vinyl Wlymers and plasticized and in which'the ratios ofsuperposed parallel cellulose deriYatives' Suitable agents for threads based on actual thread count, including tivating such adhesives are ketones and alkyl t t of the broadcloth outer ply fte formin esters, and mixtures thereof, 4., the multi-ply fabric and the coated interliner From the above description it will be apparent plyh indicated in Table I 'lA'stl I TABLE I-Continued Frequency of moir pattern in collars Broadcloth (lengthwise) Int erliner (crosswise) Ratios (based on actual thread count) Theo- Theo- Result Actual Actual Broadcloth Broadcloth Interhner Interlmer s g g 322 thread figgfi thread warp, interfiller, interfiller, broadwarp, broadcmmt count count count liner filler liner warp cloth warp cloth filler W F W F W F W F 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 150 x 74 6. -46%" 40 x 38 42 x 37 150/37=4. 05 74/42=1. 76 37/150=. Very Slight. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 150 x 72 6. -44 48 X 48 51 x 46 150/46=3. 26 72/51=1. 41 46/150=. 31 N0 m0lrc. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 149 x 72 5. 85-43" 56 x 52 60 X 51 149, 51=2. 92 72/60=1. 20 51/149=. 34 Mo re. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 148 x 74 4. 75-39" 68 X 72 68 x 68 148/68=2. 18 74/68=1. 09 68/148=. 46 Moire. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 150 x 73 3. 85-44 80 x 80 80 x 75 l50l75=2 00 73l80= 91 75/150=. 50 Mo1re. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 150 x 74 4. 75-39" 88 x 80 86 x 84 150/84=1. 785 74/80= 925 84/150=. 56 Very slight. 4. 32-37" 144 x 76 151 X 74 7. 00-40" 96 x 100 96 x 98 15l/98=1. 54 74/86= 86 98/151=. No moire.

4. 00-37" 168 x 84 166 x 85 6. 15-46% 40 x 38 43 x 36 166/36=4. 61' 85/43=1. 98 36/166=. 22 Veryslight. 4. 00-37" 168 x 84 165 x 85 6. 40-44" 48 x 48 50 x 46 165/46=3. 59 85/50='1. 46/165=. 28 No mo re. 4. 00-37" 168 X 84 169 X 84 5. 85-43" 56 x 52 60 x 51 169/51 =3. 31 84/60=1. 40 51/1 30 N0 1110 11 e. 4. 00-37 168 x 84 167 x 83 4. -39" 68 X 72 66 x 68 167/68 2. 455 83/66=1. 26 68/167=. 41 S]. 1110119} '4. 00-37 168 x 84 167 x 85 3. 85-44 x 80 82 X 74 167I74= 26 /82=1. 04 74/167=.44 M011'e. 4. 00-37" 168 X 84 168 X86 4. 75-39". 88 x 80 88 X 86 168/86=1. 86/ 98 86/168=. 51 Very Slight. 4. 00-37" 168 X 84 170 x 85 7 00-40" 96 x 97 x 98 1T0/98=1. 73 85l97= 88 98I170=. 58 97/85=1. 14 Very sllght.

of moir, based on the items included in Table I, are as follows:

TABLE II Broad- Ratio of parallel cloth threads Result 144x76 to .25 Moire. 16BX84 to .22 0. 116 x 60 to 31 No moire. 128x68 .28 to .36 Do. 136 x 60 27 to Do. 144x76 to .31 Do. 168 X 84 28 to 30 Do. 116160 -.39 to .57 Moire. 128x68 .385to .59 Do. 136x60 .345to .57 Do. 144 X 76 to 57 D0. 144 X 76 34 to .56 Do. 168 x 84 to .505 Do. 168 X 84 .41 to .58 Do. 116 x 60 63 to 83 No moire 116 x 60 to 70 D0. 116 x 60 .65 t0 74 Do. 128 x 68 62 to 75 Do. 128x68 .64 to .73 Do. 128x68 .70 to .81 Do. 136 x 60 .66 to Do. 136 X 60 595 to .66 Do. 136 X 60 .67 to .71 D0. 144 x 76 to .71 Do. 144176 .65 to Do. 144x76 to .86 Do. 168x84 .59 to .71 Do. 116 x 60 82 to 1. l1 Moire. 116x60 $0 001.22 D0. 128 X 68 .885 to 1. 16 Do. 128 x 68 .86 to l. 13 Do. 136 X 60 79 to 1. 20 D0. 136 X 60 .83 t0 1. 26 Do. 144 x 76 83 to 1. 16 Do. 144 x 76 91 to l. 20 Do. 168 x 84 795 to 1.14 D0. 168 X 84 88 to 1. 26 D0. 116 x 60 1.35 to 1. 54 No moire 116 x 60 1. 43 to Do. 116x60 1.20 1:01.59 Do. 128 x 68 1. 23 to 1. 43 Do. 128 X 68 1. 33 ml. 60 Do. 128 X 68 1. 37 to 1. 55 D0. 136 X 60 1. 41 to 1. 48 Do. 136 x 60 t0 1. 52 Do. 136 x 60 1. 51 to l. 68 Do. 144 x 76 1. 30 to Do. 144 x 76 1. 41 to Do. 144 X 76 1. 54 to Do. 168 x 84 1. 40 to 1. 70 Do. 116 x 60 1. 75 to 2. 59 Moire. 128 X 68 1. 69 to 2. 60 Do. 136 X 60 1. 76 to 2. 89 D0. 144x76 1.76 to Do. 144 X 76 1.78 to 2.92 Do. 168 x 84 1.98 to Do. 168 X 84 1. 73 to 2. 455 D0. 116 x 60 to 3. 24 No moire. 128 X 68 2. 81 t0 3. 555 Do. 136x60 to 3.70 Do. 144 X 76 t0 3. 26 D0. 168 x 84 3. 31 to 3. 59 Do. 144 x 76 to 4. 05 Moire. 168 x 84 to 4. 61 D0.

It will'therefore be apparent that, with the arrangement of the outer and inner plies as set forth above, the ratios of superposed parallel threads. which clearly result in the elimination of moir, are as follows:

TABLE III Between .27 and .33 Between .595 and ".78 Between 1.27 and 1.68 Between 2.93 and 3.70

In addition to the above ranges given in Table III, in which no moir is produced when all ratios of superposed parallel threads fall within the .ranges given in Table III, there are-five cases given in Table I in which it has been found that the ratios of one set of superposed parallel threads fall within the ranges set forth in Table 111, but the other set of superposed parallel threads falls without those ranges without the production of moir. In such cases the ratio of the set of superposed parallel threads which falls without the ranges set forth in Table III can fall within the slightly broader ranges set forth in" Table IV below without the production of moir.

TABLE IV .Between .27 and .36 Between .59 and .86 Between 1.20 and 1.70 Between 2.81 and 3.70

It will be obvious that where an excessivelyheavy coating of adhesive is applied tothe interliner, this will prevent the moir effect, by obliterating the pattern of the interliner, but for most practical uses this thickness of coating would introduce other objectionable characteristics. It will therefore readily be understood that in the practice of this invention the layer It is apparent that many widely different embodiments of this invention may be made without departing from the spirit and scope thereof; and, therefore, it is not intended to be limited except as indicated in the appended claims.

I claim: v

1. In the process of manufacturing semi-stiff "collars of multi-ply fabrics, the step of eliminating a moir pattern which comprises selecting coated and uncoated fabrics arranged in cross-wise relation in which all ratios of the .number of substantially parallel threads per' inch in the uncoated fabric to the number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the superposed coated fabric fall within the following ranges:

Between .27 and .33 Between .595 and .78 Between 1.27 and 1.68 Between 2.93 and 3.70

2. In the process of manufacturing semi-stiff collars of multi-ply fabrics, the step of eliminating a moir pattern which comprises selecting coated interlining and uncoated outer fabrics ar-' ranged in cross-wise relation in which all ratios of the number of substantially parallel threads per inch in the uncoated outer fabric to the number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the,-s uperposed coated interlining fall within the following ranges:

Between .27 and .33 Between .595 and .78 Between 1.27 and 1.68 Between 2.93 and 3.70

uncoated outer'fabric to the number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the superposed coated interlining fall within the following ranges:

Between .27 and .33 Between .595 and .78 Between 1.27 and 1.68

- Between 2.93 and 3.70

but in which, with respect to the other set of superposed substantially parallel threads, the ratios of the number of substantially parallel threads per inch in the uncoated outer fabric to the' number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the superposed coated interlining fall within the following ranges:

Between .27 and .36 Between .59 and' .86 Between 1.20 and 1.70 Between 2.81 and 3.70

4. The process of manufacturing semi-stiff collars that are free from moir pattern out of multi-ply fabrics which comprises coating a plurality of interlining fabrics with the desired adhesive, counting the number of threads per inch in these and counting the number of threads of uncoated outer fabrics, and selecting uncoated interlining and outer fabrics in which all ratios of the number of substantially parallel threads per inch of the interliner, when coated in the same way as before, to the number of threads per inch substantially parallel thereto in the outer ply that is to be superposed thereon in cross-wise relation fall within the following ranges:

Between .27 and .33 Between .595 and .78 Between 1.27 and 1.68 Between 2.93 and 3.70

providing the interlining material selected with 

